
I’ve tested this myself across more Frigidaire ovens than any other single brand, and the diagnosis splits cleanly into two completely different paths depending on whether you have a gas or electric model — something a lot of generic troubleshooting guides gloss over. A Frigidaire gas oven not heating almost always traces back to the igniter, while an electric model points toward the bake element or, less commonly, the control board. Knowing which category you’re in before you start saves a meaningful amount of wasted diagnostic time. Here’s exactly how to work through a Frigidaire oven that won’t heat, covering both fuel types and the failure points specific to this brand.
Gas Frigidaire Ovens: The Igniter Is Almost Always the First Suspect
From experience, a Frigidaire gas oven that won’t heat is, more often than not, dealing with a weak or failed igniter rather than anything more complicated. The igniter’s job is twofold: it has to get hot enough to glow and ignite the gas, and that same heating also draws enough current to trigger the safety valve to open and allow gas flow. If the igniter has weakened with age, it may glow but never get hot enough to open the safety valve, meaning gas never actually flows even though you can see the igniter working.
Watch the igniter through the oven window during a heating attempt. A healthy igniter glows brightly orange for roughly 30 to 45 seconds before the gas catches and the burner ignites. A weak igniter glows for much longer — sometimes 90 seconds or more — without ever successfully igniting the burner, which is the clearest sign it’s failed and needs replacement. If the igniter doesn’t glow at all, the issue could be the igniter itself, its wiring, or the oven’s control board sending power to it.
Frigidaire igniter replacement parts typically cost $20–$50 and are accessible by removing the oven’s bottom panel to reach the burner assembly. The igniter is usually held by two screws and connects via a simple wire harness, making this a genuinely approachable DIY repair for most people comfortable with basic hand tools.
If a new igniter glows correctly but the burner still doesn’t ignite, check the gas supply itself — confirm other gas appliances in the home are working, and that the oven’s gas valve hasn’t been accidentally closed, which is an easy thing to overlook before assuming a parts failure.
Electric Frigidaire Ovens: Bake Element and Broil Element Failure

What surprised me about Frigidaire electric ovens specifically is how visually obvious bake element failure usually is once you know what to look for. The bake element is the exposed coil at the bottom of the oven cavity, and a failed element typically shows a visible break, blister, or burn spot somewhere along its length. Turn the oven on briefly and watch the element — a working bake element glows uniformly orange-red within a few minutes. An element that doesn’t glow at all, or only glows in one section while the rest stays dark, has failed and needs replacement.
Frigidaire bake element replacement costs $30–$70 depending on the specific model, and installation involves unscrewing the element from the back of the oven cavity and disconnecting a simple wire connection — no specialized tools required beyond a screwdriver. Always unplug the oven or shut off its breaker before working on the element, since these terminals carry full household voltage.
If the oven heats during baking but struggles specifically during broiling, the broil element — typically mounted at the top of the oven cavity — is the more likely failure point rather than the bake element. The same visual inspection and replacement process applies, just for the top element instead of the bottom one.
An element that looks physically intact but still doesn’t heat can be tested with a multimeter for continuity once disconnected and removed. A reading of infinite resistance, rather than a specific low-ohm value, confirms internal failure even without visible damage.
Frigidaire Oven Temperature Sensor Issues
I’ve seen this go wrong when people replace a perfectly good bake element because the oven seemed like it wasn’t heating, when the actual problem was a faulty temperature sensor causing the oven to think it had already reached the set temperature. The temperature sensor — a metal probe usually mounted on the back wall of the oven cavity — reports the interior temperature to the control board, which uses that reading to decide when to cycle the heating elements on and off.
A failed sensor can cause the oven to heat only briefly before shutting off prematurely, producing food that’s consistently undercooked despite the oven seeming to run normally at the start of a cooking cycle. This is a meaningfully different symptom pattern than a completely dead element — the oven does heat, just not enough or not for long enough.
Testing the sensor requires a multimeter and the resistance value specified in your exact model’s service documentation, since the correct reading varies depending on the sensor’s design. Frigidaire temperature sensors cost $15–$40 and are typically mounted with a single screw, making replacement straightforward once the faulty reading is confirmed.
Control Board and Relay Issues
From experience, control board failure is a less common cause than the igniter or element issues above, but it’s worth ruling out, particularly on Frigidaire models with more advanced digital control panels. The control board manages power delivery to the heating elements or igniter circuit, and a failed relay on the board specifically can prevent power from reaching the heating components at all, even though every other part of the oven tests fine individually.
Signs pointing toward a control board issue include the oven’s display and controls functioning normally for everything except actual heating, or specific cooking modes failing while others work correctly. This pattern — selective failure rather than complete failure across every function — is the clearest signal that the board itself, rather than a single component, deserves attention.
Control board diagnosis is more involved than swapping an igniter or element, and replacement boards cost $100–$250 depending on the model. Given this cost and complexity, confirming the diagnosis carefully before purchasing a replacement board is worth the extra time, since boards are rarely returnable once installed and a misdiagnosis here is an expensive mistake.
Frigidaire Oven Fault Codes
Many Frigidaire ovens with digital displays show fault codes when the control system detects a problem, and checking for an active code before doing any physical disassembly can save significant diagnostic time. Common codes relate to temperature sensor faults, door lock issues on models with self-clean functions, and control board communication errors. Cross-reference any code shown against your specific model’s manual, since Frigidaire’s code definitions vary somewhat across their different oven and range lines.
If your oven displays a code related to the door lock mechanism, particularly after attempting a self-clean cycle, the oven may refuse to heat normally until the lock mechanism is manually reset or cleared — a known quirk on some Frigidaire models where a failed self-clean cycle can leave the door lock engaged, preventing normal oven operation until resolved.
What Most People Don’t Know: A Failed Self-Clean Cycle Can Disable Normal Heating
Almost no general oven troubleshooting guide mentions this, but a self-clean cycle that’s interrupted — by a power outage, a manual cancellation, or an internal fault during the cycle — can sometimes leave a Frigidaire oven’s door lock mechanism engaged even after the cycle ends. Many models include a safety feature that prevents normal heating while the door lock believes a self-clean cycle is still active or improperly completed, even though the door itself may open and close normally.
If your oven stopped heating shortly after using or attempting the self-clean function, check your model’s manual for the specific door lock reset procedure, which often involves a particular button sequence or a full power cycle to clear the lock state. This is worth checking before assuming a parts failure, since this specific scenario requires no parts at all to resolve — just clearing a confused safety state in the control logic.
When to Call a Technician
Igniter replacement, bake and broil element replacement, and temperature sensor replacement are all genuinely accessible DIY repairs with basic tools and a willingness to work safely around electrical or gas components. Always disconnect power and, for gas models, confirm the gas supply is off before any hands-on diagnostic work involving the igniter assembly.
Call a Frigidaire-authorized technician when the diagnosis points toward control board replacement, particularly given the cost and the importance of an accurate diagnosis before purchasing that part. Checking warranty coverage with Frigidaire customer service using your model and serial number is worth doing first, since many components carry extended coverage windows that may apply regardless of the oven’s overall warranty status.
Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Why won’t my Frigidaire gas oven heat up?
A. The igniter is the most common cause. Watch it through the oven window during a heating attempt — a healthy igniter glows for 30 to 45 seconds before the burner ignites. An igniter that glows for 90 seconds or more without ignition has weakened and needs replacement.
Q. Why is my Frigidaire electric oven not heating?
A. Check the bake element at the bottom of the oven cavity for visible damage like breaks, blisters, or burn spots. A working element glows uniformly orange-red within a few minutes of being turned on. If broiling specifically isn’t working, check the broil element at the top instead.
Q. My Frigidaire oven heats but food comes out undercooked, why?
A. This points toward a faulty temperature sensor rather than a dead heating element. A failed sensor can cause the oven to shut off prematurely, believing it has reached the set temperature when it hasn’t. Testing requires a multimeter and the resistance value specified for your model.
Q. My Frigidaire oven won’t heat after a self-clean cycle, what’s wrong?
A. This is a known issue on some Frigidaire models where an interrupted self-clean cycle leaves the door lock mechanism engaged, disabling normal heating as a safety measure. Check your model’s manual for the door lock reset procedure, which often requires a specific button sequence or full power cycle.
Q. How much does it cost to fix a Frigidaire oven that won’t heat?
A. An igniter replacement costs $20–$50. A bake or broil element runs $30–$70. A temperature sensor costs $15–$40. A control board replacement, the most expensive common repair, typically runs $100–$250 in parts alone.
Q. How do I know if my Frigidaire oven’s control board has failed?
A. Look for selective failure rather than complete failure — the display and most controls work normally, but specific functions like heating or certain cooking modes don’t. This pattern, rather than total unresponsiveness, points toward the board rather than a single failed component.









